Dhanya Damodaran

May 2, 20209 min read

Seven Days In Tibet

Visited In December 2017

Tashi deleg (བཀྲ་ཤིས་བདེ་ལེགས) !!

Why Tibet?? Well, so many... so many reasons for us to plan a visit to Tibet. Like many of you, I have a very special interest in Dalai Lama, Buddhism, Monasteries etc. There was always a lot of urge and curiosity to know more about this Himalayan country, its traditions which are so different from rest of the world, people and their ways of living, culture, food and of course the scenic beauty...

Tibet did not allow foreigners or tourists for a long time and remained secluded from the world, until sometime in 1985 when it has been open for tourism. Today, it is mandatory to get entry permit from Chinese authorities to visit Tibet, that too specific locations. So, it is a must to get in touch with a local registered tour operator and plan the trip as individuals cannot do it on their own. We chose the reputed tour organiser 'Tibet Vista' for our 7 days trip in Tibet.

We visited Nepal before entering Tibet. Kathmandu has Chinese Embassy which issues Group Permit for family to enter Tibet, and this avoids the need to apply Chinese visa as we did not have plans to visit the Chinese mainland as part of this trip. It was easy and hassle free; the agent visited us at our hotel in Kathmandu and we handed over the documents. While we toured Kathmandu, we got the entry permit issued.

Our overland tour map is below

Day 1 - Land on The Roof of the World

Lhasa

We flew Air China from Kathmandu to Lhasa, which takes an hour and a half to reach the destination. The majestic views of Himalayas beneath added to the beauty of the flight. We started to feel the heavenly experience awaiting us for the next few days, right from the flight. I just couldn't wait for us to land and start the expedition.

Arrive at Lhasa Airport and the Traditional Welcome

We arrived at the airport and received the warm ceremonial welcome with a Khata. Khata is a white scarf made of silk in Tibetan Buddhism and is presented to the arriving guests. It is white to represent purity, and this remains the warmest welcome we have had at any place. I have preserved the scarfs we have received as a blessed souvenir from Tibet.

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On our way to the Lhasa, we caught glimpses of River Brahmputra (Yarlung Tsangpo in Tibetan), Lhasa River and a far view of the majestic Potala Palace.

Until I was on the roads of Lhasa, I had imagined a totally different image of this place - of a very traditional, conservative place with unpaved roads and monasteries and traditional styled buildings, rivers and mountains all around etc. Well, rivers and mountains were true, but I was surprised with the high rise buildings, highways, bridges and tunnels!!

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After checking in to the Tibetan styled hotel in Lhasa, we did nothing much on day 1 as it is necessary to get acclimatized with the high altitude, which we were all quite new to, and the lesser oxygen levels. Our son felt a little dizzy and soon he was okay. We were provided with oxygen cylinders, just in case necessary.

We had chosen for small group tour, and we had 10 other tourists from various countries of the world and a very friendly English speaking guide.

Day 2 - Potala Palace and Lhasa

Potala Palace - The iconic symbol of Tibet. Our first destination in Lhasa was Potala - The Winter Palace of Dalai Lama. Outside the Palace, we saw many local Tibetans from faraway lands of Tibet who have come for their holy pilgrimage to Lhasa and performing 'Kora' - Circumambulation of the holy sites.

The majestic Potala Palace

We climbed the flight of stairs to the top of the palace and enjoyed the views of Lhasa. We visited the interiors of the palace and was amazed with the grandeur of the Palace and its valuable and priceless possessions. There were several Buddhist monks performing their routine rituals around.

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We made some local friends as well.

Lunch at a local restaurant

Post lunch, we visited the famous Barkhor Street. Lots of shops and restaurants around this street and a beautiful place to stroll around.

We visited the Jokhang Temple, on the Barkhor Street. This is one of the most holiest sites in Lhasa, and we see several locals prostrating in front of the temple and also performing Kora. The burning incense sticks and chanting of Om Mani Padme Hum gives a strong spiritual feel and the authentic Tibetan architecture makes us feel out of the world.

Jokhang Temple

The views from inside the temple. Enjoy the golden shrine and the Tibetan architecture.

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Some views from the streets, hotel, and our Lhasa Beer for dinner

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My Tibetan turquoise set from the Barkhor shopping :)

Day 3 - Drepung and Sera Monastery

Our Lhasa experience continued on day 3.

Drepung Monastery

Buddhist prayer wheels, prayer flags,Ohm Mani Padme Hum chants...we get these divine experiences in abundance in Tibet.

Drepung monastery is one of the great three Gelug monasteries of Tibet. This beautiful monastery is nestled between the mountains and we can find rock carvings of Buddhist mantras on the rocks around.

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Views from the monastery

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The monastery houses a large Tibetan style kitchen, from where we had authentic vegetarian dishes from Tibet, and the special tea from Yak's milk, we also got to see a few Yak in the monastery surroundings.

The beautiful white painted monastery walls with the Buddhist monks clad in maroon gown, will remain in our memories forever

Sera Monastery

Post lunch, we visited Sera Monastery, which is another one of the “great three” Gelug monasteries of Tibet.

On the way...

Here, we had the unique experience to view the Buddhist monks debate as part of their studies. It was quite interesting.

Also, there is a Tibetan religious scripture printing house and three Sand Mandalas.

Views from the monastery

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By evening, we reached back to Lhasa and wandered on the streets of this beautiful city to enjoy the evening views, did some shopping as well

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Day 4 - Shigatse via Gyantse

Gyantse

We were leaving Lhasa, to explore the faraway lands of Tibet. We drove from Lhasa to Shigatse which is more than 250 km from Lhasa. On the way , we had some incredible views about which I will narrate to you.

River Brahmaputra

This holy river originates from Lake Mansarovar which is very sacred as per both Hindu and Buddhist beliefs. We got the amazing views of the river and its clear blue water surrounded by peaks on all sides.

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We further drove into the remote areas of Tibet, where there were small villages, the places were very thinly populated, monasteries, stupas and prayer flags were to be seen all around. There were yaks and goats grazing around as well.

Well, the interesting part was that - nature's calls had to be addressed right in the nature itself. We took 'pee stops' on the way, where the bus would stop and we all walk around to find some bush or large rock, behind which we get the small job done and return to the bus - so much blended with nature :)

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Gangba-la Pass and Himalayan Dog

We stopped at a view point at the Gangba-la Pass which is more than 4500m above sea level, where we saw the Himalayan Dog and incredible views of the peaks and valleys around.

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Yamdrok-Tso

We visited Yamdrok-Tso, one of the holy lakes of Tibet, which is astonishingly beautiful with clear turquoise water and surrounding snow capped mountains casting their reflection on to the waters of the lake. Tso means Lake; We walked down to touch and feel the pure Himalayan water from the lake and it was an incredible view with herds of grazing sheep, prayer flags and balancing rocks all around.

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We stopped for lunch in a village restaurant on the way, where we had yummy fried rice and yak milk tea.

Korola Glacier

We passed the Korola Glacier and it was very cold and windy. The glacier can be viewed by the roadside while we drive.

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Manak Dam Lake

Later we crossed the Manak Dam Lake where we hung prayer flags

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Gyantse - Fortress

We drove further and reached Gyantse, the third largest city of Tibet after Lhasa and Shigatse. Our first stop here was the Pal Cho Monastery. We had some nice faraway views of Gyantse Fortress as well.

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Pal Cho / Pelkor Monastery

This monastery is calm, serene and beautiful. The highlight is the multi storied Kumbum Stupa. We walked around and explored the place, climbed up the Stupa for stunning views around and the holy idols of Buddha, where we offered our prayers.

Kumbum Stupa

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Views from the monastery

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Statues, Paintings and Architecture

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Further, we drove and reached Shigatse, the second largest city of Tibet and checked in to our hotel, had Tibetan dinner with our favourite Lhasa Beer and then a good night sleep.

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Day 5 - Everest Base Camp

Shigatse

We were heading towards Mt Everest Base Camp!!!

The chance to catch a view of the highest mountain on Earth, much closer than ever dreamt of...Our guide arranged the 'Alien Pass' which is mandatory for us to visit the EBC area.

Tashi Lhunpo Monastery

We started the day with a visit to Tashi Lhunpo Monastery, the home of Panchan Lama.The huge monastery complex is nestled between rocky mountains. We walked around to explore the monastery, where we got to interact with locals. We enjoyed the place and the lovely view from the roof of the monastery.

Views from the monastery

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Our Son with a Monk

We drove further and visited the Tsola and Gyatsola Passes, the views were beautiful. Then, we drove to the Mt. Everest National Natural Reserve, where at Gawula Pass, we could see Mt. Everest standing tall among all other mountains from far away.

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We drove through the zig zag roads to finally reach the Everest Base Camp (EBC), which is at a height of 5200 m above sea level. It was freezing cold, -15 degrees; the views of Everest, which is 8848 m above sea level, so close was unbelievable. The evening sun rays gave a glowing golden shine to its majestic peak and it was a lifetime memorable experience.

Mt Qomolangma Base Camp

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Mt. Everest

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Rongpu Monastery

We visited the Rongpu Monastery, which is the highest Buddhist Monastery in the world where nuns and monks stay together. It was so cold outside and so warm inside the cave like monastery.

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We stayed at the Rongpu Monastery guest house. This was a basic accommodation with no air conditioning or room heating options, we had the thick comforter blankets which were electic heated to keep us warm. We enjoyed the stay in the EBC and felt like an out of the world experience. It was very very cold and low oxygen levels, so we used our oxygen supply, especially for our son. There were no covered bathrooms, hence the nature calls were done in a semi open space allocated.

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The dinner that night at EBC will never be forgotten. The Tibetan lady prepared authentic dishes and we all enjoyed a beer and camp fire with the entire team, and celebrated Christmas and New Year party out in the wilderness of EBC.

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Day 6 - EBC to Gyirong

Gyirong

After an adventerous expedition of EBC, the next day morning, we started off to Gyirong. We stopped at a view point to capture the sunrise over the Mt. Everest.

We drove along and stopped at a Tibetan restaurant for lunch. We had a nice chat with the locals :) Who says language is a barrier to communicate? We loved those moments. The food was awesome too - the hot soup and rice.

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The views of Mt. Shishapangma and the Pekutso Lake made the journey interesting

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Gyirong - The border town to Nepal

The landscape changed from snow capped mountains and turquoise lakes to more of valleys with rivers, tall trees as we approached the town of Gyirong.

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We halted at the guesthouse and enjoyed rice and dal in the Nepalese Thakali dinner and it was a blessing to our taste buds after many days of Tibetan food :)

Day 7 - Gyirong to Kathmandu

We crossed the border in the morning to Nepal, where we boarded a car for a full day bumpy drive to reach Kathmandu by evening. We crossed several villages, valleys, mountains, rivers and the roads were unpaved and drive was jerky for the entire 8 hours!! We were so exhausted, had dinner and slept like kids.

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The next day, we flew back from Kathmandu to Delhi and then to Kochi to continue our vacation with parents in India, carrying with us the everlasting memories of our Seven Days In Tibet.

As many of you would have guessed, the title of this blog is inspired from the Brad Pitt movie 'Seven Years In Tibet'. If not seven years too, I wish to make many more visits to this unique country to explore more of her beauty, traditions and culture, make many more visits to the monasteries, experience all the climates...A visit to Kailash Mansarovar is still in the bucket list.

Our family moments in Tibet

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